The Wave
I’ve been surfing for about three and half years now. I “came across” from The Other Side of having been a seakayaker, at one time making a living as a seakayak guide and catching waves in a variety of shapes and sizes of kayaks. I also used to be a fisherman by trade, and spent years bouncing around on the ocean in all sorts of conditions, from the paradisiac, swimming around the boat in glassy water reflecting the orange of a balmy warm day’s sunset, to the catastrophic, getting shipwrecked in the middle of the night in a storm of epic proportions, in heaving boiling seas with walls of ferocious black water towering high above the bridge of the boat, and us running away in front of the storm for dear life. In the space of two weeks, fourteen days, seven ships went down on that ocean, filled up with water, broken in two by the mindless violence of the waves and wind, skulldragged down to the bottom. We were the only crew that survived. Of the other six, only one other person was eve...