People
The swell has finally come in. After four months or more of predominantly south swells that bypassed our bay or just no swell at all, waves have arrived on our doorstep. A massive low turned up in front of our coastline, hammered us with howling gale-force winds, lashed us with stinging curtains of driving rain, entertained us with thunder and lightening, and smashed beaches and dunes between the eyes. The tempest raged for four days and then buggered off, back to where it came from, to mind its own business. In its wake we found ourselves with several days of messy, rowdy, all-over-the-place storm swell, with rough untidy waves that ran in five different directions at the same time and couldn’t decide whether to break or not. We paddled out, braved the fury and got a few waves out of it, but it was hard yakka for returns that were, at best, mixed and average. Until this morning. Seven days after the storm broke the madness has leaked out of the water, and what was le...